Friday | October 19, 2007

The Last Post

Well.  Wasn't that a thing.  In fact I'd have to say best thing ever.

I'm back in Uc now and trying to work out what all this has done to me.  Something.  I sure as hell don't want to stop travelling.  Best keep on that.

All said and done, I think that we succeeded mightily in our endeavours in SE Asia.  And I really have to pass the bong to my travelling companion Matthew "Everyday" O'Callaghan who, despite being in the type of climate he likes and is as happy in as a human in shit, stepped up tremendously to the challenge.  Mong toi sir!

Vietnam and Cambodia are so very different but I can't really articulate how.  The easiest thing to say is that the Vietnamese have a hell of a lot more Chinese influence, whilst the Khmers have the Indians in the background.  I guess one of the big differences is the amount of money in each country.  Quite a bit in Nam i would think as compared to close to fuck all in Bodia.  The beggars are far more prevelant in Bodia and it's interesting to note the attitude to their own currency (the riel) by the Khmer.  Even the beggars reject riel if you give it to them.  They'll take it if you say "no dollar" (they're all much more interested in USD), but it's literally used as small change.  If you buy something for $4.50 (pretty much all prices are in USD) and you give them a ten, you'll be returned $4 and 2000 riel in change.  Gold.

It was good to touch down in Hanoi again, even if ever so briefly.  The briefness was brought about by the realisation that we hadn't gotten multiple entry visas for Nam, so our current ones were void.  Shit.  We spent half a day doing various enquiries and running around (assisted ably by our driver Joyful Ra.... yes, we even had a driver in Bodia) and thanks to the incredibly capable Khmer people, had a new visa for Vietnam arranged overnight.  This meant we missed a bit of drinking time with Hanoi Helen, but there we got a little of it in, and tried on our new Hoi An suits in the process.  Absolutely gorgeous I must say.

I was able to participate in Vietnamese culture a lot more than Cambodia's.  This was because we were in Nam for three weeks as compared to one in Bodia; we had Hanoi Helen to give us an "in" to the Vietnamese; and the English is so good in Bodia that you don't feel the need to make an attempt with Khmer, in fact I get the feeling they'd rather you didn't.  In Vietnam, I was right up for trying on the language and was reasonably successful at this (despite the dialectical differences between north and south).  And the Vietnamese are always keen to help you with the words.  

The Bodians knew a startling amount about Australia.  The Vietnamese knew the names of cities, etc, but that was about it.  We were approached by a very young Khmer boy at Angkor who asked where we wwere from.  "Australia," I answered.  "What state you live in?" he asked.  "South Australia."  "Capital: Adelaide.  Australia capital:  Can bear ah.  Your Prime Minister:  John How-eerd".  I would wager there are Australians who don't know the answer to all of those questions there.  One other time I was asked about my origins and I met with the reply "oooh, a dingo stole my baby".  True story that occurred at the East Mebon at Angkor.  Awesome.

I loved both the Vietnamese and the Khmer for many different reasons, but both peoples I loved for their clear fuck-you-up strength. resilience and jaw-dropping ability to live.  As well, who in Australia can ride a moto-bike in the midst of a thousand other moto-bikes in an almost chaotic traffic system whilst holding a baby and texting all at the same time? And maybe I also love them for the way they have the art of lying around down to an artform.

Well that's the end of me.  The end result:  Fuck My Life.  I'd rather be naked and travel instead.
Posted by Phil at 00:46:32 | Permanent Link | Comments (36) |

Sunday | October 14, 2007

Kampuchea

I'm a big, big fan of this country.  It is bloody obviously a third world country, but the people here are not only pure fucking gold, they are HOT as fuck!  Especially the men.  I give Khmer men the bong for hornsness over the Vietnamese men.  With the Khmer boys, even the ones that are just south of the horn, you STILL want to do them.  Especially when you think about the fact that they built these Angkor joints.  Which I will not blog about, because there really is no putting it into words.  You just have to go.  So get off yer ass and get ye there.

Siem Reap is a fine place.  Small and lovely.  One of the cool things about it is that the name means "Siamese Defeated".  Right next to the Thai border and all.  I would love to see Darwin's name changed to "Fuck Indonesia"or something.  Don't reckon we'd get away with it quite so well, but it'd be fun to try.

I went for a wander through Siem Reap market today.  What was bloody surprising and a stark contrast to Ben Thanh Markets in Saigon, was that no one, and I mean NO ONE, asked me to buy anything.  There was a total absence of "ÿou buy something sar?".  Very refreshing and it MADE me want to stay and look around.  I bought the crappest thing I could find (for my sister who expressed a desire for something shitful from SA Asia):  an Angkor ashtray that looks like something out of a dungeons and dragons set.  Piece of crap that you wouldn't let your dog drink out of, but she asked me...

Today is our last day in Cambodia.  I'm not at home to that.  And I'm even LESS at home to the idea of coming back to Australia.  This has been fucking fantastic, and I'm gonna miss the Vietnamese and the Khmer ROOL bad for a while.  At least there's pho bo to be had at the Vietnamese stall in the markets in Adelaide.  And I can now order it in Vietnamese!  Back to Hanoi tonight and then....
Posted by Phil at 20:24:53 | Permanent Link | Comments (2) |

The Temples of Angkor.

They weren't half bad.
Posted by Phil at 20:02:40 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

Wednesday | October 10, 2007

Holiday in Cambodia

Well.  Phnom Penh is somewhere else entirely.  No one can tell me that you can walk out the door in a western society and have everything right there.  We can literally step out of the hotel here and be offered "moto-bike, marree wahna, lady?" plus all manner of other things.  Awesome.

I think the Khmers might just top the Vietnamese in the horn stakes.  Definitely the boys.  Yum.  They are a tad more friendly I think as well.  Always smiling and very happy to see you.  What makes this important is that while the VNese are also happy to see you, it's usually because they may be able to sell you something.  Here in Phnom Penh, we can walk anywhere, still seeing women everywhere with stuff dangling from babmboo poles to sell, but never being asked "you buy something?".  It's almost a little disconcerting.

We spent the day doing a couple of very interesting activities.  First of all, we went to a firing range just outside of Phnom Penh.  Backpackers are encouraged to come along and have a go at all manner of firearms to help rid the jopint of unexploded ordnance.  I was more than happy to assist here.  You are actually shown a menu when you first arrive.  I chose an AK-47 and some shitty hand gun.  AK-47 I might be lethal with.  A hand gun, I would be inadvertantly shooting something in the next province.  I was offered a hand grenade, but declined on the grounds I throw like a girl.

We followed this with a visit to the infamous Killing Fields of Cheung Ek.  This was a VERY sobering experience.  There is a large shite Khmer-style stupa in the middle of the grounds where over 8000 skulls are stacked.  When you allow youself to actually realise what it is you are looking at, it is an overwhelmingly tragic thing.  These people died (children too!) at the hands of their own people.  Unbelievable.

The temples here are the most beautiful I have seen in SE Asia.  The most famous, Angkor Wat, is everywhere.  I drink Angkor Beer, smoke Angkor cigarettes and no doubt use Angkor bog rolls.  It's even on their flag.  It is clearly a big ol flip of the bird to the world:  "No matter how crap things might be these days, we built Angkor" seems to be the thing.  And how.

And the REALLY good thing about Cambodia:  I haven't seen or heard on American yet.

Posted by Phil at 01:33:39 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

Sunday | October 07, 2007

Why Nam is cooler than Uc (Australia)

Here are things I get off on in Vietnam.

Firstly, you can smoke pretty much anywhere.  In fact I'm smoking right the fuck now in the hotel lobby as I tap away.  Awesome.  The only place you can't smoke is in places such as Highlands Coffee cafes, but these are whitie style joints and this is to be expected.

I'm REALLY getting off on just throwing my rubbish (anything) into the street.  If you just opened something that is plastic wrapped (and EVERYTHING is here) you just fling it into the gutter.  Matt actually commented on my obvious gleefulness in this indulgence.  This may seem a disgusting and shocking thing to an Ucnian, but I'm loving it.  The thing is is that a bunch of women (and it is always women no matter what city you are in) come along with big skips and brooms and clean all the rubbish up.  It is simply what is done here.  One night Hanoi Helen and I were trampsing through the old town in Hanoi and a bag of filth came flying out of  a second floor window onto the street.  Gold.  As Matt noted, littering here actually creates employment.

A very endearing thing here is how the guys hold hands or walk around with their arms around each others shoulders.  It's not an issue and it's clearly not a gay thing.  But it sure as hell gives me the horn.  Chicks are always clinging on to each other, but you do find that a bit in Uc.  The guy thing is just the coolest thing I've seen in male culture anywhere.

And finally, the entire Vietnamese nation is made of extremely handsome people.  I've never seen such a thing.  On an average, about 90% of Vietnamese are somehow bloody attractive.  I'll need to check when I get back, but I don't think that that is the Ucnian percentage.

Lastly, Saigon has neon coming out of the jacksie.  Nothing more to say there.

 

Posted by Phil at 03:01:25 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

Saturday | October 06, 2007

South of the demilitarised zone.

Saigon.  Saigon, Saigon, Saigon, Saigon.  What a town!!!  I'm loving this place.  It's much less densely smashed together than Hanoi and I have to say, as far as an Asian city is concerned, the air is fresh and clean here.  I no longer have a chest as heavy as a pile of weighbridges.  The streets here are big, wide things and everything is much more spread out.

The American influence is much more obvious here as well.  Not necessarilly in a god way either.  Always with the "Alo Jo" from everyone, who assume you are a yank, but also in things such as the amount of dioxin (agent orange) and napalm victims you come across begging in the street.  We went to the Independence Palace (former res of the South Vietnamese Prez which has been preserved just as it was the day the tanks rolled in) which was a weirdly nostalgic thing for me.  Al these classic things such as map rooms, bakelite phones, etc.  Awesome.  But then we followed this with the War Remnants Museum.  This is a much more sobering and angrifyin' experience, especially when you take into account that the goddam Americans (and us!) are doing it all again even as we speak.  Whities never learn.

HCMC is all neon and screens at night.  Fucking fantastic!!  The only thing that Vietnam lacks is gummed rollie papers.  This is a bit of an issue, as I'm sick of smoking Marlboro bloody tailor-mades.  Ick!!  But we love the Ben Thanh Markets (just down the street from our hotel) for its crap you can buy and the nightly food extravaganza.  The pho here is of an ongoingly better quality than in the north.  More aniseedie.

I'm really gonna miss Nam when it's time to go.  I can already tell.  I've become very attached to the place and the people.  They are all hornbags (I have never been in love with an entire race for its horn value like this) and they are all amazingly chilled out.  Hanoi Helen pointed out when in Hoi An that in Vietnam, for some reason, poverty does not translate into anger.  Strange.

 

Posted by Phil at 15:59:17 | Permanent Link | Comments (0) |

Monday | October 01, 2007

Moist

Today it is pissing down (and I mean PISSING down) in Hoi An.  The Vietnamese hate it, but I, as a dried-out Australian, am actually quite at home to it.  The streets are actually flooding here as I tap away at the keyboard and I'm waiting a bit before I do a walking tour of the old town this arvo.  I meant to do that yesterday when it wasn't raining, but in classic Phil fashion, forgot my camera.

So I have not much to say for this post as nothing much has really happened in the intervening time.  In fact, the only reason for this post is that I have nothing better to do. 

I could go on about the merits of tonal versus non-tonal languages for a while, but I actually dont understand tonal languages at all, so that would be pointless.  The tailors here are fantastic, as are the fried bush babies.  I really need to have sex pretty soon and wouldn't mind a coffee that doesn't have condensed milk in it.

We have a new mate called Ben, who's from London.  He's been teaching English in China for the last year.  He calls ALL the females here he comes across swee' art, including the older ones.  Gold. 

We were in a bar the other night that has a sort of political activist kind of theme going on.  They were running a docco on the screen there that was about political violence in the 20th century around the world.  When the bit about the Palestinians came on, a bunch of Israelis got ROOL shitty and actually demanded the staff turn it off.  This pissed me off in a mighty fashion.  We are in Vietnam after all and it's not like they don't know about this stuff here.  Remember the Chinese, the Fench, the Americans, etc, etc???  And for fuck's sake, the whole theme of the bar was political, as I said, so why the fuck go in there???  I was ready to cause an international incident and had upgraded to defcon 2, but pulled back from the brink at the last minute.  Ben almost did cause one, but managed to rein himself in at the last minute and went off swearing in Spanish to himself instead.  Aah the multiculturalism.  Awesome!

Then there was the night in Hanoi when Matt, Helen and I were in a bar called Red Mask (great place if you ever go to the Hanoi... you can get special cigarettes over the bar there).  Suddenly the lights and everything went off and silence was called for.  it was because the police were coming on down the street and they would otherwise have kicked us all out and closed it down.  After about three minutes everything came back on again and the night went on.  What a country!!!!

Well it is still raining and I could go on with this bullshit for ever, but I must don my swimmers and get into the old town.  If you don't hear from me for a while, I'm in the South China Sea.

Posted by Phil at 18:46:16 | Permanent Link | Comments (2) |